Mens linen shirts represent our favorite seasonal, warm weather material. Linen is a soft, breathable fabric that is perfect for the summer and warmer / humid climates. Unlike cotton it feels more crisp initially, though over time and wear it becomes softer and more malleable. Linen boasts strength (longevity) and weight which gives it a beautiful dress shirt drape. Are there negatives to linen? Of course. Linen shirts wrinkle almost instantly and do not hold their shape well. Like denim, linen is somewhat course and does need several wears / washes to “break in”. Those negatives however are what endear people to linen.
The perfect summer dress shirt
Linen also has the reputation as being the world’s strongest natural fiber (20x stronger than cotton). It’s actually used in paper money notes throughout the world to increase strength. As a result, linen and linen shirts can last for a a very long time. One incredible example — when the tomb of the Pharaoh Ramses II (died in 1213 BC) was found in 1881, the linen wrappings were perfectly preserved and in an almost original state — after over 3000 years!
A preserved Egyptian linen tunic (shirt) that is over 2000 years old!
Linen is also known as the original performance fabric and is referred to by many as nature’s natural wicking fiber. It can absorb an astonishing 20% moisture before it begins to feel heavy and damp. It will also gain strength as it absorbs water / moisture.
Both linen and cotton do wrinkle. Unlike cotton, linen fibers have a natural resin within them known as lignan. Initially, these fibers are stiff and wrinkle easily. Like denim, over time (multiple washes and wears), these creased wrinkles become smoother and easier to tame.
After a few wears, a linen shirt collar will soften and showcase a beautiful “roll”
How and Where is Linen Made?
In terms of material properties, linen is significantly different than cotton. Linen fabric is derived from the cellulose, straw-like fibers that grow within the stalks of the flax plant, or Linum usitatissimum — which is actually a vegetable! It is known as one of the oldest cultivated plants in human history. As we showed above, linen can trace its history to the age of the Egyptian pharaohs (>4000 years).
In contrast to cotton, linen is made by initially allowing the stem of the flax plant to rot in slow-moving water. This process is known in the industry as “retting”. Thereafter, it’s beaten and spun into yarn, woven into cloth, and boiled in fermented solution of bran. It’s finished by a rinse in fresh buttermilk. The process itself may not be glamorous but the end product has a “silkish” texture that is as old as humanity itself.
From Flax Seed to Woven Fabric — How Linen is Made
Similar to cotton, all linen is not the same. The plant from which it’s derived (flax) is grown practically everywhere in the world. However (like cotton), certain geographic regions produce higher quality linen from flax than others. Western Europe is widely known as the best location for growing flax due largely to the climate and the geo-specific bacteria within that region. Of these countries, Ireland carries the mantle as the country known to produce the highest quality / premium linen thread. Russia and China are the largest producers of linen but their fibers tend to have the poorest quality. The United States is a heavy producer but it’s end product is a courser grade and used primarily for upholstery.
Mens Linen Shirts are Perfect for Summer
The end use of linen has changed significantly in the last 30 years. In the 70s / 80s, only about ~5% of linen was used for fabric that was to be worn. Since the 90s, that number has jumped to ~70% — and for good reason. What happened? Fashion designers discovered the benefits and began marketing it as a seasonal, casual wear fabric. From an appearance standpoint, they were drawn to the look of the weave which has a unique warp / weft giving it a textured, heathered appearance.
Most importantly, linen is a soft, breathable fabric that’s perfect for warmer climates. Linen’s composition keep it away from your skin allowing better airflow over your body. Linen is also a rigid fabric and is less likely to stick to the skin. Linen possess high air permeability, which allows air to flow through it easily which allows the body to breathe.
In terms of casual shirts, linen is one of our favorites. More so than any other fabric, it’s perfect when worn with short sleeves vs. long sleeves. It’s also the goto attire for a beach wedding which is almost always planned as a more casual / less formal event.
Linen shirts are perfect in warmer / tropical climates
Linen / Cotton — A Perfect Fabric Marriage
The pros of linen are well known and ascribed above. The negatives (primarily the wrinkling) can give linen a slightly disheveled look that may not appeal to everyone. The fusion of cotton (56% linen / 44% cotton) gives the fabric the same benefits of traditional linen with a significantly less wrinkle prone surface. This material mixture gives the shirt an absolutely flawless finish. All of Deo Veritas’ linen shirting fabrics are in fact a linen / cotton mix.
An example of a linen / cotton blend
Our Mens Linen Shirts Buying Guide
As a custom dress shirt maker, we’ve rounded up our favorite, softest, most luxurious mens linens shirts that are perfect for any occasion during the summer swelter. All of the shirts / fabrics shown below are made from a linen / cotton blend — which we believe is the perfect linen material combination.
Light Blue Linen / Cotton Blend
Fabric / Attributes:
- 56% Linen / 44% Egyptian Cotton from Söktaş
- Italian Spread Collar
- 1 Button Barrel Cuffs
A light blue hue is the perfect mens linen shirt color-way. As such, this traditional hue is complimentary to almost any ensemble. The elegant Italian Spread collar pairs perfectly with this shirt and looks incredibly dapper under a blazer for a great summer, semi-formal look.
Where to Buy It:
Solid White Linen / Cotton Blend
Fabric / Attributes:
- 56% Linen / 44% Egyptian Cotton from Söktaş
- One Piece (California) Collar
- Cocktail Cuffs
The most popular mens linen shirt we offer and the shirt you’re most likely to see at a beach wedding. A solid white linen shirt is a goto for any occasion. It can be worn either casually on the beach with a pair of cargo shorts / sandals or a bit more formally — per the blazer / shirt photo shown below. Our One Piece collar is our most unique collar (distinguished by it’s one piece construction) that was made for linen and looks clean and effortless under a blazer. Additionally, we paired this shirt with specialty cocktail cuffs that give the shirt a much more unique, contemporary appearance.
Where to Buy It:
Dark Blue Linen / Cotton Print Blend
Fabric / Attributes:
- 56% Linen / 44% Egyptian Cotton from Söktaş
- Italian Full Cutaway Collar
- Cocktail Cuffs
Our favorite mens linen shirt fabric. We love the contrasting navy diamond polka dots print against the dark blue surface. This elegant pattern is just bold enough to be a contemporary classic. The collar is one of newer favorites — the Italian Full Cutaway, which has longer collar points which tuck perfectly underneath the blazer’s lapels. To complete the more contemporary look, we paired this shirt with our James Bond inspired cocktail cuffs.
Where to Buy It:
Conclusions
Interested in learning more? Check out Deo Veritas’ full collection of linen shirting fabrics.
Check out some of our other Popular Guides…
The Men’s White Dress Shirt — A Definitive Buying Guide on our Favorites
The One Piece Collar — The Greatest Collar You’ve Never Heard of
Untucked vs. Tucked In — A Guide to Dress Shirt Length
Mens Short Sleeve Dress Shirts: A Summer Fashion Guide
